Bekal Fort: The Historic Sea Bastion of Kasargod

The Bekal Fort lies in the sleepy and quaint town of Kasargod, situated in the northernmost part of the Malabar coast of Kerala. In the last few decades, this fort and the surrounding white-sand beach have become well known as the setting for several films. However, the fort’s significance and antiquity extend well beyond the present era. The fort encapsulates centuries of heritage and culture that have shaped the region’s history.

Kasargod: A Cultural Hub

Kasargod, the northernmost district of Kerala, boasts a rich cosmopolitan cultural heritage. The state of Karnataka surrounds it to the north, the Western Ghats to the northeast, Kodagu to the southeast, Kannur to the south, and the Arabian Sea to the west. It is known as Sapta Bhasa Sangama Bhoomi, or the land of seven languages: Malayalam, Beary, Tulu, Kannada, Konkani, Marathi, and Urdu. The region of Kasargod is also well-known for the exquisite ritualistic dance tradition of Theyyam. The strategic location of Kasargod has made it a hub of commercial activity since ancient times, bringing traders and invaders alike. The history of the Bekal Fort is integrally tied to this heritage city.

Bekal: A Historical Outline

The region of Kasargod has been documented on historical maps of peninsular India as a significant trading centre since the 9th century CE. Between the 9th and 14th centuries, Arab traders frequented its coast to procure spices and other precious items. The Kolathiri or Chirakkal rulers, around the 12th century CE, are said to have significantly developed the port town of Bekal. They had to contend with the mighty Vijayanagara Empire for control over this region. It is believed that the dance tradition of Theyyam also includes narratives depicting the conflict between the Kolathiri and the Vijayanagara rulers. After the 14th century, European traders began to enter the region. The account written by the 16th century Portuguese traveller, Duarte Barbosa, who visited Kumbla (near Kasargod) forms an important source for studying the history of the region.

Following the decline of the Vijayanagara Empire after the Battle of Talikota in 1565 CE, several feudatory rulers rose to power in peninsular India. The Keladi Nayakas or Ikkeri Nayakas rose to prominence in the Bekal region. They realised its political and economic importance and converted it into a military base for extending their domination over the rest of the Malabar coast. It is believed that Hiriya Venkatappa Nayaka started the initial fortifications in Bekal. The fort was later completed by the illustrious Shivappa Nayaka in 1650 CE. In fact, Bekal was a part of an entire line of defensive structures erected along the coast of the Arabian Sea by the Keladi Nayakas. The Chandragiri Fort, located nearby, was built from laterite and houses an impressive watchtower. The Hosdurg and Panayal forts are two other important forts of this defensive barrier. It is believed that the Koteyar community, still present in the region, was brought to the area by the Nayakas around this time to defend these forts (kote).

In the 18th century, Hyder Ali, the ruler of Mysore, embarked on an ambitious plan to extend his dominion over the entire state of Kerala and brought several forts, including Bekal, under his control. He, however, died in 1782 CE, whereupon Tipu Sultan took over the reins of the kingdom. Tipu Sultan developed the Bekal Fort into a strong military base and built an imposing observation tower here. In 1799 CE, Tipu Sultan was killed in the Fourth Anglo-Mysore War, and Bekal passed into the hands of the East India Company. Under the British, the strategic importance of Bekal, as a political and economic centre, declined, and the fort fell into ruin. After Independence, the Kasargod region was included in the newly formed state of Kerala in 1956. The Kasargod district was formed in 1984, and Bekal became a town within it.

The Architecture

The Bekal Fort is exquisitely designed and built with dark maroon laterite stones. Polygonal in shape and covering an area of more than 40 acres, it is one of the largest forts in Kerala. The sea surrounds a significant portion of the fort’s perimeter. The fort’s architecture reflects its defensive character. The main gateway of the fort, however, is placed away from the sea on the landward side. The fort is endowed with impressive walls and ramparts, which are again interrupted by massive bastions. While the bastions are equipped with several large and small openings for guns, the walls are interspersed with windows and peepholes. These were used in the past to detect the enemy from afar and to provide picturesque views of the sea today. A distinctive feature is a lone bastion projecting into the sea.

The most prominent structure inside the fort is the observation tower built by Tipu Sultan. A wide ramp leads to the top of the tower, which provides breathtaking views of the sea and the surrounding terrain. There is also a water tank with a flight of stairs. Several secret tunnels that lead to the sea through serpentine channels tickle visitors’ curiosity. In addition, there are large storage blocks for arms and ammunition. A temple called the Mukhyaprana temple, dedicated to Hanuman, is situated close to the entrance.

The Bekal Fort is a popular tourist destination in the area. Year-round, it is packed with visitors who come to marvel at this magnificent historic structure and to absorb the serene beauty of the surrounding area. It is the site’s remarkable scenic beauty that has made it a favoured destination for filmmakers. The cultural diversity and artistic legacy of the larger Kasargod region also draw travellers from far and near. The Bekal Fort was declared a special tourism area in 1992, and the Bekal Tourism Development Corporation was formed soon after. This majestic fort, standing tall on the coast of the Arabian Sea, is a proud bearer of the region’s historical legacy.